Paris can justifiably claim to be the world’s capital of film
appreciation. With more than 370 screens within the city limits, distributed
among over 100 movie theatres and multiplexes, a fabulous cornucopia of movies
are screened, both brand-new and classic. Although American movies dominate the
market, virtually every filmmaking industry in the world has found a niche in the
city’s art houses. Theaters change their programs on Wednesdays. The cheapest
practical guides to what’s on are Pariscope and L’Officiel des Spectacles with
complete theater listings and timetables for some
300 movies. Movies shown in subtitled original language versions
are coded “VO” (version originale); dubbed movies are coded “VF” (version
française). The Fête du Cinéma is held for three days in June. The system is
that you pay full price for one movie and then every movie seen subsequently in
any theater on that day costs around two euros. Film buffs think nothing of
taking in six or seven screenings in one day.
MOVEMENTS IN CINEMA
Paris was the cradle of the cinematograph over 100 years
ago, when Auguste and Louis Lumière invented the early film projector. Their
screening of L’Arrivée dun Train en Gare de La Ciotat (Arrival of a Train at La
Ciotat Station) in Paris in 1895 is considered by many to mark the birth of the
medium. The French reverence for movies as a true art form is based on a theory
of one of the world’s first film critics, Ricciotto Canudo, an Italian
intellectual living in France, who dubbed cinematography “the Seventh Art” in
1922. The title holds true even today. The city was of course also the
incubator of that very Parisian vanguard movement, the new wave, when film
directors such as Claude Chabrol, François Truffaut, Jean-Luc Godard, and Eric
Rohmer in the late 1950s and early 60s revolutionized the way movies were made and
perceived. The exploration of existential themes, the use of long tracking
shots, and the rejection of studios for outside locations are some of the
characteristics of New Wave film. In 2001, the success of Amélie revitalized the
Parisian moviemaking scene; many of its locations are easy to spot as you walk
around town. The same is true of The Da
Vinci Code, also featuring Amelie star Audrey Tautou.
MOVIE ZONES
Most Paris movie theaters are concentrated in several movie belts, which enjoy the added appeal of nearby restaurants and shops.
The Champs-Elysées
remains the densest theater strip in town, where you can see the latest Hollywood smash hit or French auteur triumph, as well as some classic reissues, in subtitled original language versions. Theaters in the Grands Boulevards, in the vicinity of the Opéra de Paris Garnier, show movies in both subtitled and dubbed versions.
The Place de Clichy is the last Parisian stronghold of Pathé, which operates no fewer than 13 screens there, all showing dubbed versions. A major hub of Right Bank movie activity is in the Forum des
Halles shopping mall.
The Left Bank,
historically associated with the city’s intellectual life, remains the center of the art and repertory cinemas. Yet, it has equally as many of the latest block busters. Since the 1980s, many
theaters in the Latin Quarter have closed down and the main area for Left Bank
theaters is now the Odéon-St- Germain-des-Prés area. The Rue Champollion is an exception. It has enjoyed a revival as a mini-district for art and repertory movies.
Farther to the
south, Montparnasse remains a lively district of new movies in both dubbed and subtitled prints.
BIG SCREENS AND
PICTURE PALACES Among surviving landmark theaters are two Grands Boulevards venues, the 2,800-seat Le Grand Rex with its
Baroque decor, and the Max
Linder Panorama, which was
refurbished by a group of
independent movie buffs in
the 1980s for both popular
and art film programming.
The massive new
14-screen
MK2 Bibliothèque theater
(plus bar, stores, and exhibit-
ion space), recently opened
up in the revitalized 13th
arrondissement and just across
the river, the Bercy movie
complex is worth a visit too.
In the Cité des Sciences et
de l’Industrie
at La Villette,
scientific movies are shown at
La Géode (see p237). This has
a hemispheric screen (once
the world’s largest) and an
“omnimax” projector which
uses 70-mm film shot horizon-
tally to project an image
which is nine times larger
than the standard 35-mm
print. Along the Canal St-
Martin, MK2’s twin theater
complexes –
Quai de la Loire
and Quai de la
Seine – are
linked by a canal boat.
REVIVAL AND
REPERTORY HOUSES
Each week, more than 150
titles representing the best of
world cinema can be seen. For
old Hollywood movies, the
independent Grand Action
mini-chain can’t be beaten.
Other active and thoughtful
repertory and reissue venues
include the excellent Reflets
Médicis screens in the Rue
Champollion and the Pagode.
The latter is particularly
striking: the Oriental pagoda
was constructed in 1895 and
has been recently renovated. Studio 28 in Montmartre is a
lovely old movie house with
lights in the theater designed
by Jean Cocteau and a
charming garden bar full of
fairy lights and kitsch cut-outs
of old movie stars. Opened in
the 1920s, Studio 28 claims to
be the first ever avant-garde
theater and once played host
to film greats such as Luis
Buñuel and Abel Gance. They
screen everything from the
latest releases through to Fellini
festivals and documentary
shows. There are at least ten
films screened here each
week, including art-house
classics and pre-releases. The
theater also holds regular
debates with well-known
directors and actors. Another
Parisian institution, Studio
Galande has shown the
Rocky Horror Picture Show to
costumed movie-goers every
Friday night for over 20 years.
CINÉMATHÈQUE
FRANÇAISE
The private “school” of the
New Wave generation, this
famous film archive and
repertory theater was created
by Henri Langlois in 1936
(see p200). It has lost its
monopoly on classic film
screenings, but it is still a
must for cinephiles in search
of that movie film no longer
in theatrical circulation or,
perhaps, recently restored or
rescued. The association is
now housed at 51 Rue de
Bercy in a wonderfully
futuristic-looking building
designed by Frank Gehry.
The sail-like façade has given
the building its nickname:
“dancer revealing her tutu.”
The movie library has more
than 18,000 digitalized
movies, and there are enough
exhibitions, projections,
lectures, and workshops
to satisfy the appetite of
any film enthusiast. For those
interested in the building’s
architecture there are tours on
the first Sunday of each month.
NON-THEATRICAL
VENUES
In addition to the Ciné-
mathèque Française, film
programs and festivals are integral parts of two highly
popular Paris cultural
institutions, the Musée
d’Orsay (see pp144–5) and
the Pompidou Center (see
pp110 –11) with its two
screening rooms. The Musée
d’Orsay regularly schedules
film programs to complement
current art exhibitions and is
usually restricted to silent
films. The Pompidou Center
organizes vast month-long
retrospectives, devoted to
national film industries and
on occasion to some of the
major companies.
Finally, the Forum
des
Images (see p109) in the
heart of Les Halles is a
hi-tech film and video library
with a vast selection of films
and documentaries featuring
the city of Paris from the late
19th century to the present
day. The archives here are
amazing and include news-
reels and advertisements
featuring Paris alongside the
feature films and documen-
taries. The Forum has three
theaters, all of which run
daily screenings of feature
films. One ticket allows the
visitor access to both the
video library and to the
theater screenings. The
screenings are frequently
grouped according to theme
or director, making it possible
to spend several hours enjoy-
ing a mini-retrospective. See
website for details.
TICKET PRICES
Expect to pay around €9
at first-run venues or even
more for films of unusual
length or special media
attention. However, exhibitors
practice a wide array of
collective discount incentives,
including cut-rate admissions
for students, the unemployed,
the elderly, veterans, and
large families. Wednesday
is discount day for everybody
at some theaters – prices are
slashed to as low as €4.
France’s three
exhibition
giants, Gaumont, UGC,
and MK2, also sell special
discount cards and accept
credit card reservations for
their flagship houses, while
repertory houses issue
“fidelity” cards.
MOVIES WITH STRONG
IMAGES OF PARIS
Historical Paris
(studio-made)
An Italian Straw Hat
(René Clair,
1927)
Sous les toits
de Paris
(René Clair,
1930)
Les Misérables
(Raymond
Bernard, 1934)
Hôtel du Nord
(Marcel Carné,
1937)
Les Enfants du
Paradis
(Marcel Carné,
1945)
Casque d’Or
(Jacques
Becker, 1952)
La Traversée
de Paris
(Claude
Autant-Lara, 1956)
Playtime
(Jacques Tati,
1967)
New Wave Paris
(location-made)
Breathless
(Jean-Luc
Godard, 1959)
Les 400 coups
(François
Truffaut, 1959)
Documentary
Paris
Paris 1900
(Nicole
Vedrès, 1948)
La Seine a
rencontré Paris
(Joris Ivans, 1957)
Paris as seen by
Hollywood
Seventh Heaven
(Frank Borzage, 1927)
Camille
(George Cukor, 1936)
An American in Paris
(Vincente
Minnelli, 1951)
Gigi
(Vincente
Minnelli, 1958)
Irma La Douce
(Billy Wilder, 1963)
Paris when it Sizzles
(Richard Quine, 1964)
Frantic
(Roman Polanski, 1988)
French Kiss
(Lawrence Kasdan, 1995)
The Ninth Gate
(Roman Polanski, 1999)
Moulin Rouge
(Baz Luhrmann, 2001)
The Bourne Identity
(Doug Liman,
2002)
Le Divorce
(James Ivory,
2003)
Before Sunset
(Richard Linklater, 2004)
Film Festivals
Film festivals are a way of life for Parisian movie
buffs.
There are several major events each year and lots of
small themed festivals happening at any given time
around the city. The annual Paris Film Festival, held at
the end of March, may be dwarfed by its glitzier sister
in Cannes, but the capital’s version is a far friendlier
event for the public to attend – and there are still more
than enough opportunities to spot celebrities.
OPEN-AIR FESTIVALS
There are several outdoor
cinema festivals throughout
the summer, including the
Festival Silhouette which
shows short films in the
lovely Buttes Chaumont (see
p234), the Cinéma au Clair
du Lune festival, which has
projections of films at Parisian
sites which are relevant to the movie and Le Cinéma en
Plein Air, which draws crowds
to a lawn in La Villette (see
pp236-7), where a giant
inflatable screen shows old
and contemporary classics.
This is one of the summer’s
most popular events so be
sure to get there early and
don’t forget to take a hamper
full of goodies to nibble on
throughout the movie. INDOOR FESTIVALS
During the annual Paris Film
Festival, over 100 films are
shown at the Gaumont
Marignon on the Champs-
Elysées. The city’s gay and
lesbian film festival at the
Forum des Images usually
takes place in November.
Paris Tout Court is an
impressive short film festival
held at the Arlequin in St-
Germain, which also stages
lectures and meetings with
renowned directors and
artists. Other film festivals
include the Les Etranges
festival which shows weird
and wonderful offbeat films
from around the world to
enthusiastic
audiences.
DIRECTORY
Cine Sorbonne
9 Rue
Champollion 75005.
Map 13 A5.
Tel 01 43 26
84 65.
Forum des
Images
Porte
St-Eustache,
Forum des
Halles 75001.
Map 13 A2.
Tel 01 44 76
63 00.
www.forumdesimages.fr
Gaumont
Marignan
27 Ave
Champs-Elysées
75008.
Map 5 A5.
Tel 08 92 69
66 96.
La Géode
26 Ave
Corentin-Cariou
75019.
Tel 08 92 68
45 40.
www.lageode.fr
Grand Action
Action Rive
Gauche,
5 Rue des
Ecoles 75005.
Map 13 B5.
Tel 01 43 54
47 62.
Le Grand Rex
1 Blvd Poissonnière
75002. Map 7
A5.
Tel 08 92 68
05 96.
Images
d’Ailleurs
21 Rue de la
Clef 75005.
Map 13 B2.
Tel 01 45 87
18 09.
Latina
20 Rue du
Temple
75004.
Map 7 C2.
Tel 01 42 78
47 86.
Lucenaire
53 Rue
Notre-Dame-des-
Champs
75006.
Map 16 E2.
Tel 01 45 44 57
34.
Max Linder
Panorama
24 Blvd
Poissonnière
75009. Map 7
A5.
Tel 08 92 68
00 31.
Majestic
Bastille
4 Blvd Richard
Lenoir
75011.
Map 14 E4.
Tel 01 47 00
02 48.
MK2 Beaubourg
50 Rue
Rambuteau
75003.
Map 7 B2.
Tel 08 92 69
84 84.
MK2
Bibliothèque
128-162 Ave de
France
75013. Map 18
F4.
Tel 08 92 69
84 84.
MK2 Quai de la
Seine/
Quai de la
Loire
75019.
Map 8 F1.
Tel 08 92 69
84 84.
Pagode
57 bis Rue de
Babylone
75007. Map 11
C4.
Tel 01 45 55
48 48.
Racine Odeon
6 Rue de
l’Ecole de
Médecine
75006.
Map 12 F4.
Tel 01 46 33
43 71.
Reflets
Médicis
3-7 Rue
Champollion
75005.
Map 12 F5.
Tel 01 46 33
25 97.
Salle Garance
Centre Georges
Pompidou, 19
Rue Beau-
bourg 75004.
Map 13 B2.
St-Andre des
Arts
30 Rue St
Andre des
Arts 75006.
Map 12 F4.
Tel 01 43 26 48 18.
Studio 28
10 Rue Tholozé
75018.
Map 6 E1.
Tel 01 46 06
36 07.
UGC Ciné Cité
Bercy
2 Cour
St-Emilion 75012.
Tel 0892 700
000.
UGC Cine-Cite
les
Halles
7 Place de la
Rotonde
75001. Map
7 A2.
Tel 08 92 70 00 00..
MOVIE THEATERS
Action Christine
Odeon
4 Rue
Christine 75006.
Map 12 F4.
Tel 0892 680
598.
Action Ecoles
23 Rue des
Ecoles 75005.
Map 13 A5.
Tel 0892 680
591.
Arlequin
76 Rue de
Rennes
75006. Map 12
E4.
Tel 01 45 44
28 80.
Le Balzac
1 Rue Balzac
75008.
Map 4 E4.
Tel 08 92 68
31 23.
Centre Georges
Pompidou
19 Rue
Beaubourg
75004. Map 13
B2.
Le Champo
51 Rue des
Ecoles 75005.
Map 13 A5.
Tel 01 43 29
79 89.
Cinémathèque
Française
51 Rue de
Bercy 75013.
Tel 01 71 19 33 33.
www.cinemateque.fr
Cinema Studio
Galande
42 Rue Galande
75005.
Map 13 A4.
Tel 08 92 68 06 24.
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