Rock, Jazz, and World Music France

Rock, Jazz, and World Music

Music lovers will find every imaginable form of music in Paris and its environs, from international pop stars in major venues to buskers of varying degrees of talent in the metro. There’s a hugevariety of styles on offer, with reggae, hip-hop, world music, blues, folk, rock, and jazz – Paris is said to be second only to New York in the number of jazz clubs and jazz recordings and there is always an excellent selection of bands and solo performers.
On the summer solstice (June 21) each year, the Fête de la Musique takes place, when anyone can play any form of music, anywhere, without a license, and when the whole city parties all night. Ears may be assailed by a heavy metal rock band or lulled by an accordionist playing traditional French songs.
For complete listings of what’s happening, buy Pariscope (published every Wednesday) at any kiosk.
For jazz fans there’s the monthly Jazz magazine for schedules and in-depth reviews.

MAJOR VENUES
The top international acts are often at the enormous arenas: Palais Omnisports at Bercy, Stade de France at St-Denis or the Zénith. Other venues such as the legendary chanson center of the universe, the Olympia, or the Grand Rex (also a cinema), have assigned seating and a more intimate atmosphere.
They host everyone from bewigged and cosmetically enhanced iconic first ladies of country to acid jazz stars.

ROCK AND POP
Until recently, Paris’s indigenous rock groups (Les Négresses Vertes are probably the best-known, and are still going strong) drew foreign attention precisely because they were French.
For too long, Paris pop meant Johnny Hallyday and insipid covers of US and UK hits, or
Serge Gainsbourg and his brand of faintly naughty decadence. Paris rock traditionally (and deservedly) attracted either patronizing praise or outright mockery.
That is no longer the case. The international success of the groups Daft Punk and Air and the contribution to the music scene of producer, songwriter, and musician Bertrand Burgalat have led to a growth in confidence in the local music scene. The phrase French Touch often describes hip producers, writers or singers, now in demand all over the world. Banlieue- (suburb-) based rap, rai, and reggae no longer sound like French versions of imported forms, instead they now have their own identity.
There is no shortage of gigs. The latest bands usually play at La Cigale and its downstairs den of din,
La Boule Noire, the Divan du Monde, and the Elysée-Montmartre, while the Bataclan and the Rex club are the best places for R&B.
The Olympia is the city’s most famous rock venue, attracting top acts. Many nightclubs also double up as live music venues.

JAZZ
Paris is still jazz-crazy. Many American musicians have made the French capital their home because of its receptive atmosphere. All styles, from free-form to Dixieland and swing, and even hip-hop-jazz crossover, are on offer. Clubs range from quasi-concert halls to piano bars and pub-like venues. One of the most popular places, though not the most comfortable, is the New Morning. It’s hot and the table service can be a little erratic, but all the great jazz musicians continue to perform here, as they have in the past. Arrive early to ensure a good seat. Le Duc des Lombards is a lively jazz club in Les Halles, which also features salsa.
Many jazz clubs are also cafés, bars or restaurants. The latter includes the intimate Autour de Midi...et Minuit in Monmartre, with its vaulted “cave.” Dining might not be a requirement, but it’s always wise to check first.
 Other hotspots are Le Petit Journal Montparnasse for modern jazz, Le Petit Journal St-Michel for Dixieland, and the Sunset. A trendy crowd is drawn to La Belle Villoise’s jazz brunches in Ménilmontant. Caveau de la Huchette looks like the archetypal jazz joint, but today it favors swing and big-band music, and is popular with students.
The Caveau des Oubliettes has a growing reputation for cutting-edge jazz.
For a change, try the local talent at small, friendly bars such as the less expensive Bistrot d’Eustache and super cool La Flêche d’Or, set in an old railroad station. The Jazz-Club Lionel Hampton in the
Méridien hotel is a well-respected venue which features Sunday jazz brunch.
On the other side of town, the renovated Trabendo has an intriguing mix of up-and-comers and down-and-outers.
Paris does not neglect blues fans either. The Quai du Blues is the best-known haunt, hosting concerts by established performers.
Paris has two international jazz festivals in summer: the Paris Jazz Festival which is the mainstay of the summer calendar, and the Jazz à la Villette in July, with films on jazz, debates, and discussions and boeufs (jam sessions).

WORLD MUSIC
With its large populations from West Africa and the countries of the Maghreb, the Antilles, and Latin America, Paris is a natural centre for world music. The Chapelle des Lombards has played host to top acts; it also has jazz, salsa, and Brazilian music. Aux Trois Maillets is a medieval cellar with everything from blues to tango and rock and roll covers, while Kibélé is a great place for North African sounds. Many jazz clubs intersperse their programs with ethnic music. These include New Morning, which also has shown with South American artists, and Baiser Salé, for popular acts including Makossa, Kassav, Malavoi, and Manu Dibango. World music in a stunning setting can be found at the Institut du Monde Arabe, a wonderful architectural feat which draws stars from the Arab music world to its concert hall.

TICKET PRICES
Prices at jazz clubs can be steep, and there may be a cover charge of over €15 at the door, which usually includes the first drink. If there is no cover charge, the drinks will be expensive and at least one must be bought.
Tickets can be bought from FNAC outlets and Virgin Megastore, or directly from venue box offices and at the door of the clubs themselves.